Many years have passed from when I was at the beginning of my climbing activity and was going through the first issues of “Anevainontas” magazine. In that magazine I saw for the first time fields like Mouzaki and Hatzouri. These were bold and wild with amazing routes, lots of negative inclination, with big deployments and unparalleled aesthetics.
From that point on and after the encouragement of friends (also climbers) and due to the lack of high difficulty routes at our Prefecture, I started investigating our mountains to find new climbing heavens. We managed to reach that point were new fields with tenths of routes are opened each year.
However I still had this internal momentum… Nothing from these fields reminded me the ones that I was observing in magazines. Sure, there were new beautiful fields like Paou, Anavra (with 2 sectors), Mikro at Platanias, etc but I was still looking for my “Ithaca”. Two years passed from that day and as our level was rising along with our need for something more… extreme, I finally found it.
The field of Kofoi B – Spiliorema is the destination! It is the most extreme thing in Magnesia as we speak (since I am preparing another surprise in the near future). For those that adrenaline is a part of their life, this field is the most demanding one they can find at Magnesia.
The routes have a relatively large deployment, very technical passages, explosiveness and endurance, strength, balance. All these, combined with big negative inclination, make this field a special one. It is a big step forward for our climbing community and not only that.
Access : The village of Kofoi is located 12km from the city of Almyros. Almyros is located at the 289km of the national road from Athens to Larissa. You can get accommodation in local hotels and have your meals in many restaurants or taverns of the area. To get to the field of Kofoi, you follow the country road that connects the city of Almyros with the village with the same name (Kofoi). Nearly at the half of the road there you will see a block at your right. This is field A, with much easier routes. We continue a bit further until we meet a creek with a cement bridge and a sign. We park at the end of the road from where this path starts. We follow the path along with the creek, heading northwest towards the field. You will need around 15-20 mins. The field cannot be seen from the road due to its west face orientation, but you can partially see it from the village.
Field Characteristics: This rock is compact limestone of a very good quality and no loose. At this area there are 22 routes so far and there is the capability to open many more in order to cover the needs of all levels of climbers. Their deployment varies from 12m to 28m, so a 65m rope is suggested (due to negative inclination) and 16 quickdraws for the larger routes. At this field and due to its west face orientation the climbing is pleasant during spring time and autumn, where we can climb all day long. The hardcore ones will be able to climb at winter (recent winters are very smooth) since the field is relatively waterproof, except from some periods of heavy rain where routes with columns will have water. The field is not good at all during summer time due to extreme hot (unless you go there from dusk to noon).
All routes are of the sport kind, equipped with inox boards and double expansion plugs. Their relays are also double in inox protection with karabiners and all have the route name on their base. The largest amount of the routes is of negative inclination with 2 roofs to be the highlight of them.
The Spiliorema climbing field is divided in 2 sectors: The northern one with 16 routes and the south one with 6 routes.
The routes and their grade:
- Άδραξε τις Μαίρες (Seize the Maires), 6b
- Calcium, 6c
- Pipistrello matto, 7b
- Think positive, 7c+? (Project)
- Tremenda Solitudine, 7b+
- No name, 8c? (project)
- Ονειροπαγίδα (Dream Catcher), 8b+? (Project)
- Hysteria, 8a? (Project)
- All day long, 7b+/7c
- Gallery, 5c+
- In da club, 8a+
- Just Do it!, 8b+? (Project)
- no name (project), 8c+/9a?
- Vertigo, 8b+? (project)
- Διακορευτής (Punch), 8b
- Kofi way, 8a
- Coffee day, 7c+
- Tabullae Rossa, 7b
- Je m’en fous, 6c+
South part :
- La bimba, 4b
- Be cool, 6a+
- Gilda, 6b+
- Happy End, 6c+
- Vammos alla Πλάγια, 7a
- Eros, 7c
- Use Your Illusion, 8a+
- Asahi, 7c
- Esplossivo, 8a
- Facilissima, 5c+
- Kofidromio, 6a
As you understand, this field offers a variety of routes for all levels, as each week a new route is completed. For those that like tough negative inclined routes, the field is one of the best they can find in mainland Greece. Some routes that I would definitely suggest are:
- Be Cool: One of the most recently nailed routes, located at the bottom area of the field. It has a very characteristic line with a “hidden” negative inclination, with very good grabs and beautiful moves up to its ending.
- Tabullae Rossa: The “red unwritten board” of the field is a riddle waiting to test you! Very food balance, intuition of fine movements, a crux that demands to find the way and needs thought and less duration when closing to the end. A very technical route and is remarkable that no one has done this on sight.
- Coffee Day: This is a very tough route. It needs a combination of technique, endurance, explosiveness, strength, etc. Simple drink your coffee by thinking on how to go through the difficult parts of this route!
- At the level of 8a and above it is difficult to suggest a route. Based on the comments of my friend, Christos Tsourvakas (a regular visitor to the field), all of them are amazing and special, giving the sense that you walk on air (due to negative inclination). All routes of that level will give you the best impressions. They are all with natural lines following the relief of the rock and what makes them special is that each one is not the same with another. They all need great concentration, stubbornness and endurance in order to conquer them. I would like to distinct the “Διακορευτή» (Punch), due to its historical importance. It was the first route of that level that was nailed in Magnesia, along with my friend Paschalis Zafeiriadis who helped to make a start in this magnificent field.
The grades of the routes are given with extreme precaution, since the level of the author is far from 8 and the only “judge” for this (which I thank for the support) is Christos Tsourvakas. However, as we told you, the field is new and the routes are waiting for you!
The article is provided by Christos Boukoros. Contact the organizers through: +306984240652, or through their contact data below.